Machine for making and applying ornamental devices



Sept 20, 1949- c. BUSTAMANTE 2,482,537

MACHINE FOR MAKING AND APPLYINGr ORNAMENTAL DEVICES 4 Sheets-Sheet l Filed July 9. 1946 INVENTOR CEfAR EUIIAMANTE.

HIS ATTORNEYS SePt- 20, 1949- c. BUSTAMANTE ,2,482,537

MACHINE FOR MAKING AND APPLYING ORNAMENTAL DEVICES Filed July 9, 1946 4 Sheets-Shea*l 2 CE-.fAR Bl/JTAMNTE- sept' 20, 1949- n' c. BUSTAMANTE 2,482,537

MACHIINE FOR MAKING AND AI-PLYING ORNAMENTAL DEVICES Filed July 9. 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 gli!!! TNVNTOR CIJAR 6017A MEN TE H l5 ATTORNEY Sept. 20, y1949. c. BUSTAMANTE 2,482,537

MACHINE' FOR MAKING AND APPLYING ORNAMENTAL DEVCESl Filed July 9, 1946 4 Sheets-Shea?I 4 @wf m7/ INVENTOR ZIAR LUTA MA N TE 'HIS ATTORNEYS Patented Sept. 20, 1949 MACHINE FOR MAKING AND APPLYING ORNAMENTAL DEVICES Cesar Bustamante, New York, N. Y. Application July 9, 1946, Serial No. 682,447

4 Claims.

This invention relates to apparatus for automatically attaching devices to sheet material for the purpose of ornamentation. The ornamentation device may serve as a holder or Vmountingrfor an ornamental stone or gem such as a rhinestone, or the ornamentation device may itself constitute the ornamentation, such devices being known in the trade as nailheads The ornamentation Ldevices ',are usually applied to fabric, such as womens dress goods, but they may also be applied to various other materials such, for example, as leather, Yand it will be understood that the term fabric as used herein includes any sheet material which is suitable to receive the ornamentation.

Theobject of the invention is to provide an improved machine for both fabricating and applying the ornamental devices to the fabric, both of th-ese operations being carried out by the single machine, a single stroke or cycle of operation of reason or another and hav-e not gone into general use, and the object of the present invention also is to provide an improved machine of this kind which will operate Without skipping, which will leave no sharp edges on the ornamental devices exposed to catch the threads of fabric surfaces brought into contact with them during the manufacture of articles of clothing, or otherwise, from the ornamented fabric, and which will fashion the ornamentation devices to a precise predetermined shape.

Such precise fashioning of the devices, where ornamental stones are used, enables the stone not only to be mor-e securely held in position but also imparts a neater appearance to the fabric than is the case with fabric ornamented by the automatic attaching machines heretofore constructed. In decorating fabric with nailheads, the precise fashioning produced by the machine of the present invention results in uniformity and an improved appearance of the exposed portions of the nailheads.

The invention will be understood by considering the accompanying drawings showing, by way of example, one embodiment of the invention. In these drawings,

t" Fig. 1 is a view of the machine in front elevaion;

Fig. 2 is a view partly in section and partly in front elevation taken on line 2-2 of Fig. 3 with the mechanism in a different position from either Fig. 1 or Fig. 3;

Fig. 3 is a view partly in side elevation and partly in vertical central section with the mechnism in a different position from either Fig. 1 or Fig, 4 lis a view in central transverse vertical section drawn to an enlarged scale and showing a portion of the mechanism of the lower central part of Fig. 2, and the position of mechanism corresponding to that figure;

Fig. 5 is a vertical section taken on broken line 5-54of Fig. 4 and drawn to the same scale as Fig,

Fig. 6 'is a fragmentary side view with the parts in a different position than in Fig. 4;

Fig. '7 is a detail horizontal section taken on line 1--1 of Fig. 4;

shown in upper portion of Fig. 10 but in a slightly different position;

Figs. 12 and 13 are respectively a top view and a side view of an ornamentation device in the form of a mounting or holder for a gem such as a rhinestone;

Fig. 14 is a view of the blank before bending the legs and forming;

Figs. 15 and 16 are corresponding and similar views to Figs. 12 and 13 of an ornamentation device in the form of a nail head;

Fig. 1'7 is a View in side elevation of the lower portion of a punch used in connection with the forming and application to the fabric of the nail head shown in Figs. l5 and 16;

Fig. 18 is a sectional View of a fragment of fabricwith a nailhead applied to it; and

Fig. 19 is a detail central vertical section showing a modification of the lower part of the machine.

Referring now to the accompanying drawings, and rst to Fig. 3, the machine comprises a frame I which may be conveniently made in the form of an iron casting. Frame l has a base portion 2 which may serve as a means for attaching supremoving 'plates 21 carrier 28 can be replaced with another for making and applying ornamentation devices of a different size. For this purpose carrier 28 has at its opposite sides two aligned trunnion recesses to receive a p-air of trunnion bearings 42, 43. 'I'runnion 42 projects from a member 44 which serves as a spacer to align the center of reversible carrier 28 with the center line of punch 2| and plunger Member 44 also has an outer projecting portion 45 which fits within an aperture at the lower end of front plate 21.

Trunnion bearing 43 is a part of a reversing mechanism indicated generally by reference numeral 46 which serves to reverse the position of carrier 28 by turning it through an angle of 180 during the upward stroke of plunger I and carriage 23. With this in view, trunnion 43 is constituted of the inner end of a shaft 41 which turns in a bearing aperture extending through the lower end of rear plate 21 and also through a boss 48 formed thereon to lengthen the bearing surface.

In order that shaft 41 may impart rotation to reverse or invert carrier 28, an elongated key member 49 is received in a key slot 59 in the rear side of carrier 28 (Fig. 8). Key member 49 may be formed integrally with a hub portion which is pinned or otherwise secured to shaft 41 and which also constitutes a spacing collar similar to member 44, to space carrier 28 from rear plate 21. It will be understood that these spacing members 44 and 45 also serve to rigidly support the sides of carrier 28 so as to maintain its axis in precise alignment with the axis of forming plunger 2|.

Reversing mechanism 45 includes a stationary vertical rack bar 52 having teeth 53. Meshing with teeth 53- is a pinion gear 54 which rotates freely on a supporting shaft 55 rsecured at its inner end in an aperture in plates 21 somewhat above shaft 41. Shafts 55 and 41 are, therefore, both mounted on this plate 21 and are parallel to one another. Pinion 54 has on its left hand face as viewed in Fig. 4 a single laterally projecting tooth 56 which is adapted to engage successively two diametrically opposed recesses 51 in the hub 58 of a mutilated gear member 59, only one of recesses 51 being illustrated in the drawings.

Mutilated gear member 59 turns loosely on shaft 55 alongside of pinion 54, the latter 'being biased towards gear member 59. by means of a coil spring 60 on the outer portion of shaft 55 between pinion 54 and the head of this shaft. Consequently, pinion 54 turns ineifectively on shaft 55 during the downward stroke of carriage 23, tooth 55 being urged against the face of hub 58 by the pressure of coil spring 6D. At or slightly before the end of the down-stroke, tooth 56 slips into recess 51 so that on the up-stroke it engages the wall of this recess which is parallel to the face of tooth 55 and imparts rotary movement to hub 58 and gear 59.

Gear 59 is provided with two sections of gear teeth 6| land 62 (Fig. 5), the teeth being interrupted between these two sections. The number of teeth in each of these sections corresponds with half the number of teeth in a pinion gear 63 with which they cooperate, gear 63 being xed -on the outer .portion of shaft 41. Adjacent mutilated gear 59 and pinion 63 are inter-engaging locking pla-tes 164, 65. Plate 6| is provided with two convex locking surfaces 65 and `61 disposed intermediate the two sections of gear teeth i6| and 62 land. consequently diametrically opposite 6 one another. Plate 65 has two concave locking surfaces 58 and 169. It will beunderstood that locking plates l64 and 65 are secured in any suitable manner to the sides of their respective gears.

The arrangement of the construction'just described is such'that upon each upward stroke of carriage 23 the rotation of pinion 54 caused by its engagement with .teeth 53 of the station-ary rackd-rives hub 58 and mutilated'gear 59 through one-half a revolution. During the rst part of this movement one ofthe locking surfaces, for example, surface 61 (Fig. 5) is turned suiiiciently to release locking surface -68 of plate 55. Thereupon the .teeth of one of the mutilated gear sections, for example teeth 52, enter into engagement with the teeth of pinion 53 and rotate it through one-half a revolution, whereupon locking surface Sii-of plate 64 engages the oppo" site concave locking surface 69 of plate 35. :The parts remain insuch locked position throughout the following downstroke of carriage 23 `and unti1 the commencement of the next upstroke of the carriage. "il

Figs. 12 through 16 illustrate two examples of the type of ornamentation `device produced by and applied to fabric by the present machine. Figs. 12 :through 14 show a device for securing ornamental stones to the fabric, while Figs. 15 and 16 show one form of nailhead. Fig.'14 shows in plan View a blank 1|) for the device 1| shown in plan view in Fig. 12 and in side elevation in Fig. 13. In Figs. 12 and 13` the Aprongs 14 of the ornamentation device 1| 'have been bent substantially at right vangles to the body of the device, in which position they penetrate the fabric-and are then crimped or bent inwardly .as shown in Fig. 10 `around the crown of an ornamental stone 15 so as to engage the outer facets thereof and holdl the stone in place on the surface ofthe fabric which is indicated by numeral 16.

Fig. 15 shows la blank 12 for the trailhead and in Fig. 16 the nailhead is shown in side elevation in condition to be applied to the fabric. In Fig. 18'the prongs which are indicated by numeral 11 have penetrated to the rear surface of the fab'- ric .and been bent flat against this surface in order to secure the nailhead in position.

When machine is used Ifor fabricating and applying the ornamentation devices 1| and ornamental stones 15 Ito the fabric the forming and fashioning punch 2|, having a comparatively blunt -fashioning surface 18 (Fig. 10) is employed. W'hen it is used for making and applying nail4 heads 13,` punch member 2| 'is replaced by a punch'member such, for example, as indi-cated by numeral 21m in Fig. 1'1 having a fashioning surface 19 ywhich is substantially hemispherical, but which may have any suitable shape depending upon the character of the nailhead which it is desired to form.

The ornamentation devices 1| and 13 are fabricated from a strip (Figs. 1-5) of suitable material, usually metal, of comparatively thin gauge. This strip is coiled on -a magazine roll (not shown) which is arranged to rotate freely on a suitable supporting shaft (also not shown) and which may either be stationary or be mounted on vertical reciprocating carriage 23. Strip -80 is fed through a small rectangular channel just enough larger th-an the strip itself :to alf low the strip to move freely. This channel is formed as a groovey in the bottom of die support 30 immediately above the surface ofv blanking die 25 and extends from side to side of carriage 23.

Strip 80 is fed or pulled'through the channel Vcenter the stonewith respectto the -means such as the screws shown, and each bar has at its opposite ends a tongue |04 which fits into-a ,corresponding groove in the base of one of the conical members |00.

In describing the operation of the machine in applying an ornamentation device 1| and stone 15 to fabric it will be assumed that the lower bore .9 of reversible carrier 28 contains an ornamentation` device fabricated on a previous stroke of plunger |I. When the carriage 23 reaches the bottom of its stroke, as determined by the contact of nuts 35 with bosses i8, the lower end of carrier 28 has descended to cooperating position with the work support, constituted of member |08 (described below) and the upper end of lower plunger I4, and as above mentioned, is substantially in contact with the fabric 16 to which the ornamentation devices and ornamental stones :i are attached, The proper position of carrier 28 may be obtained by adjusting nuts 3B.

The rhinestones or other Vornamental stones are contained in a hopper I05'of any suitable construction and which includes a feeding mechanism not shown in detail but operating by means of a belt (not shown) trained over a pulley |06. It causes the stones to be fed in a single row along a tube, or guide channel, |01, the lower end of which communicates with the interior of a combined work support and anvil guiding mem- .ber |08 which is fixed to the base 2 of the machine. The stones are delivered in inverted po'- sition to the interior guide |08 within which the vupper end of lower plunger I4 reciprocates.

A single stone is received on the upper end of lower plunger |4 while it is at the lower end of .its stroke (somewhat below `the position shown in Fig. 4) and below theV openingof channel |01 into the interior of guide |08. The upper end of plunger |4- serves lboth to raise Vthe stone from the position shown in Fig. 4 to that shown in Figs. 2, 3 and 10, ,and vit serves also as an anvil or crimping surface to turn the ends of prongs 14 over the face of the stone.y

Since the stone on the upper end of plunger I4v may not be in registry with the uncrimped prongs 14 (Fig. 4) means are provided for bringing about proper registry. For this purpose guide member |08 is provided with four vertical ribs |09 (Figs. 4, 'l and 10) the lower ends of which are rounded so that they may serve as cams to prongs as the stone is raised by plunger |4. The sides of plunger I4 have vertical channels to receive ribs |09.

Continuing the description of the operation of applying an ornamentation device 1| and stone 15, the previously fabricated ornamentation device 'II is in the lower mouth portion or bore 9| of reversible carrier 23 (Fig. 4), the carrier die means including the two die members S32 being in their uppermost position as shown in that figure. The prongs of device 1I are directed downwardly. A stone 15 is on the upper end of,

10 low-er plunger |4 which is rising. The bottom of punch member 2| however has not'. yet contacted ornamentation device blank 1|!V within ben-ding die 26. v

At the top of the stroke of lower plunger I4,

it raises the stone against the underside of fabric 16 (Fig. 10), and main plungerII pushes punch 2| into the upper end of carrier 28, inserting the partially completed ornamentation device 1I in the upper mouth portion or bore.9| and forcing die means 92, 92 downward. This ejects the previously formed ornamentation de.- vice 'II from lower bore 9| andA forces its prongs 14 against the crimping surface of the upper end of lower plunger I4 (Figs. 1 and I0) thereby crimping them around the stone 15 Yas shown in Fig. 10.

f The arrangement is such that only a limited climping pressure can be applied to lower ornamentation device 1| and stone 15 within it. Otherwise the stone might be cracked. This pressure can be regulated by adjusting nuts 35. The forming or fashioning of the ornamentation device 1| in the upper bore 9| takes place after the crimping operation and after enlargement 03 of upper die 92 seats solidly vfagainst shoulder |02 of carrier 28. Then punch 2| descends slightly further, las shown in Fig. 1l, to compress the upper ornamentation device 1I. It will be understood that on the up-stroke of main plunger, I I, reversing mechanism (Figs. 4 6) operates to invert reversible carrier 28 placing the newly completed ornamentation device at the bottom of the carrier ready for application to the fabric.

When applying nailheads 13 (Figs. 15-18) punch member 2|m replaces punch 2| and if desired, although not necessary, a stationary crimping or anvil member YIll-m (Fig. 19) may be used in place of lower reciprocating plunger I4. It may be secured in fixed position in guide member -or work support |08 by means of a removable pin H2, or in any other suitable manner.

It will be understood that punches 2| and 2 Im may be replaced with other of different sizes to make any desired vsize of ornamentation device 1| or 13. When changing the size of these punch members a new reversible carrier 28 is also installed having die members 32 to correspond.

The feeding forward of strip from which the ornamentation devices are punched takes place during the up-stroke of main plunger I I. Feeding mechanism 8| is mounted on the reciprocating carriage 23 (Figs. l and 2). After emerging from its guiding channel through carriage y23, strip 80 passes around a friction feed roller V| I3 which rotates on a stud ||4 projecting from the side of a bracket plate ||5. This bracket is bolted on the rear of carriage 23 (Fig. 3).

After making a halfiturn around feed roller ||3 strip 80 passes between it anda cooperating pressure roll IIS and thenv onto atakeup roll (notshown). c v- Pressure roll IIB rotates on a stud which is carried on an arm ||1, whose lower end is pivoted at ||8. A tension spring ||9 is attached to the upper end of arm ||1 to bias pressure roll IIS against strip 80 and feed roller ||3.

Feed roller I3 is actuated by a lever |20 loosely pivoted on stud I |4 and operatively connected to feed roller ||3 by means of a one-way clutch I2! which may be of the ball type and arrange to rotate roller ||3 in the clock-wise direction only. The free end of lever |20 is pivoted at |22 to the lower end of a link |23 whose upper end is con- Il nected to ablock |524 QFig.. 3)/` havingtal pivoty |Z5 (fFig. 2) fixed to the rear side. of. one of the` frame bosses I8.

During reciprocation of carriage` 213- linlr |225 swings slightly aboutv pivot: |252 and; actuating lever rocks. fronrabout the position of Fig. 1 to that of Fig. 2. The. length of link |23 is` ad',u justable. to vary the angular movement imparted to feed roller I|3 during. each. 11p-stroke of carrage 23 so that the amount of feed of strip 8.9 may be correctly adjusted. This is done by tapping the lower end.' of link. |23 into a cl'evis [26 (Fig. 3) and providing a Iock nut. |2T. To prevent damageto` the feedingmechani'sm in case ofj'amming the upper end of link |23 slides in an aperture in block |24 and? is yieldable in one direction through the presence of a coil spring |528.

Although the invention has been. set forth through the description in detaif of one form' of its mechanical expression, by Way of example, it will be understood. that it can be embodied in other forms, and, consequently, it is intended that the scope of thev invention shall extend to the boundaries established by the appended claims.

I claim.:

l. In a machine for applying ornamentation devicesv to fabric, a reciprocating plunger and' a reciprocating carriage actuated thereby to re ciprocate with the plunger during partV of each stroke, the plunger moving relatively to the carriage during the remainder of the stroke, a reversible carrier mounted on said carriage for receiving and inverting ornamentation devices, a work support including a crimpingtoot, said reversible carrier being advanced to cooperating position with said work support by the reciprocation of said plunger, said reversible carrier having an opening extending fromend to end thereof with a mouth portion at eachV end adapted to receive and hold a partially' fabricated' ornamentation device, die means longitudinally sliiftabfe in said opening having a die withineach of said mouth portions, punch means operated by said movement' ofthe plunger relative tothe carriage for punching out an ornamentation device and bending the prongsy thereof and moving the same into one of the said mouth portions to-'engage the die therein and7 shift said die to cause thev ejection of a previously formed ornamentation device from the opposite mouth' portion causing thel prongs thereof to penetratel the fabric onthe WorkI holder and forcingV themi-nto engagement with said crimping; tool, and means within said opening to arrest the movement' of said die means to cause said first mentioned ornamentation device to be compressed bythe said punch and die to fashion thes'ame.

2. In a machine for applying ornamentation devices to fabric, a reciprocating main plunger, a reciprocating carriage actuated:A thereby toreciprocate with the plunger during part of' each stroke, said plunger moving relatively to the carriage during the remainder of stroke, a reversible carrier mounted on said carriage having an opening extending from end to end thereof with a mouth portion at eaclr of said opening adapted' to receive` a partially com: plete ornamentation device, ay plungerA in said opening shiftable byv the insertion of an'. ornamentation device at one end to cause the ejection of a, second ornamentation device previously inserted at the opposite end, a, work. support irrcluding a crimping tool, said reversible: carrier being advanced by said main plunger: to place one end thereof in cooperating position, with. said work support, a. punch operated byv said movement of' the main plunger relativeto the carriage to blank out an ornamentation device and a second punch similarly and; subsequently operated; to bend the prongs of said device to push. it into one of said mouth portions.

3. In a machine. for applying ornamentation devices to fabric, a Work support including a crimping tool, a reciprocating plunger andi a reciprocating carriage actuat'l-iclthereby to reciprocate with respect to said Work support', a reversible carrier mounted on said` carriage.. for receiving and inverting ornamentation devices, adjustable means for arresting the movement of said carriage when saidv reversible carrier has advanced to cooperating position with said work support, means within said. carrier for eiecting an ornamentation device therefrom causing the prongs thereof to penetrate the fabric on said Work support and forcing them into, engagement with said crimping tool, and means for: acuating said ejecting means.

4'. In a machine for applying ornamentation devices to fabric, a reversible carrier having an opening extending from end: to` end thereof with a mouth portion at eaclr end' adaptedY to. receive and hold' a partially fabricated ornamentation device, die means longitudinally shiftabl'e in said opening having a die within each of said mouth portions, a reciprocating punch member adapted to move a partially fabricated ornamentation device intoV one of the said moutlr portions to engage the die therein and shift said die. means to cause the ejection of a previously formed ornamentation device from the opposite mouth: portion of said carrier, and means Within saidv opening to arrest the movement. off said die means. to cause said first mentioned ornamentation device to be compressed between said punch and die.

CESAR BUSTAMANTE'.

REFERENCES' CITEDv The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Country Date- 689,410 Reibisch Dec. 24, 19'01 731,630 Suverkrop June123`, 1903 790,186 Coates Mayl-16, 1905 

